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Brouillet said it was an easy shot so long as multiple shifting conditions aligned as he worked on board a media boat bobbing and changing position in the Pacific.

“If all conditions are met — weather, waves, light, if the boat driver is in the right position, and if you know how to use your camera — you can take good images of surfing in Teahupo’o,” he told Time magazine. “All the rest is experience, timing, and a bit of luck.”

Organizers’ decision to hold the Olympic event at the Tahitian break surprised many because it can be deadly, and injuries, usually caused by contact with its sharp-and-shallow reef, are a given. It’s power can be godly, as vertical wave height doesn’t begin to encompass the left-riding vortex’s weight; the Pacific Ocean seems to fold in on itself at the break. It’s also the venue most distant from a host city: In this case, Teahupo’o is 9,765 miles from Paris.

For his part, Medina was a little less technical, explaining his ride more in metaphysical terms.

“Today was a dreamy day for surfing,” Medina said afterward, the wave propelling him to the men’s quarterfinals. “I never imagined that we could get waves like this in the Olympics.”

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